Chapter 19
Part 19
11 min read · 2,257 words
“He must be the village idiot,” Bill said. “My God! look at that!”
Down the street came dancers. The street was solid with dancers, all
men. They were all dancing in time behind their own fifers and drummers.
They were a club of some sort, and all wore workmen’s blue smocks, and
red handkerchiefs around their necks, and carried a great banner on two
poles. The banner danced up and down with them as they came down
surrounded by the crowd.
“Hurray for Wine! Hurray for the Foreigners!” was painted on the banner.
“Where are the foreigners?” Robert Cohn asked.
“We’re the foreigners,” Bill said.
All the time rockets were going up. The café tables were all full now.
The square was emptying of people and the crowd was filling the cafés.
“Where’s Brett and Mike?” Bill asked.
“I’ll go and get them,” Cohn said.
“Bring them here.”
The fiesta was really started. It kept up day and night for seven days.
The dancing kept up, the drinking kept up, the noise went on. The things
that happened could only have happened during a fiesta. Everything
became quite unreal finally and it seemed as though nothing could have
any consequences. It seemed out of place to think of consequences during
the fiesta. All during the fiesta you had the feeling, even when it was
quiet, that you had to shout any remark to make it heard. It was the
same feeling about any action. It was a fiesta and it went on for seven
days.
That afternoon was the big religious procession. San Fermin was
translated from one church to another. In the procession were all the
dignitaries, civil and religious. We could not see them because the
crowd was too great. Ahead of the formal procession and behind it danced
the _riau-riau_ dancers. There was one mass of yellow shirts dancing up
and down in the crowd. All we could see of the procession through the
closely pressed people that crowded all the side streets and curbs were
the great giants, cigar-store Indians, thirty feet high, Moors, a King
and Queen, whirling and waltzing solemnly to the _riau-riau_.
They were all standing outside the chapel where San Fermin and the
dignitaries had passed in, leaving a guard of soldiers, the giants, with
the men who danced in them standing beside their resting frames, and the
dwarfs moving with their whacking bladders through the crowd. We started
inside and there was a smell of incense and people filing back into the
church, but Brett was stopped just inside the door because she had no
hat, so we went out again and along the street that ran back from the
chapel into town. The street was lined on both sides with people keeping
their place at the curb for the return of the procession. Some dancers
formed a circle around Brett and started to dance. They wore big wreaths
of white garlics around their necks. They took Bill and me by the arms
and put us in the circle. Bill started to dance, too. They were all
chanting. Brett wanted to dance but they did not want her to. They
wanted her as an image to dance around. When the song ended with the
sharp _riau-riau!_ they rushed us into a wine-shop.
We stood at the counter. They had Brett seated on a wine-cask. It was
dark in the wine-shop and full of men singing, hard-voiced singing. Back
of the counter they drew the wine from casks. I put down money for the
wine, but one of the men picked it up and put it back in my pocket.
“I want a leather wine-bottle,” Bill said.
“There’s a place down the street,” I said. “I’ll go get a couple.”
The dancers did not want me to go out. Three of them were sitting on the
high wine-cask beside Brett, teaching her to drink out of the
wine-skins. They had hung a wreath of garlics around her neck. Some one
insisted on giving her a glass. Somebody was teaching Bill a song.
Singing it into his ear. Beating time on Bill’s back.
I explained to them that I would be back. Outside in the street I went
down the street looking for the shop that made leather wine-bottles. The
crowd was packed on the sidewalks and many of the shops were shuttered,
and I could not find it. I walked as far as the church, looking on both
sides of the street. Then I asked a man and he took me by the arm and
led me to it. The shutters were up but the door was open.
Inside it smelled of fresh tanned leather and hot tar. A man was
stencilling completed wine-skins. They hung from the roof in bunches. He
took one down, blew it up, screwed the nozzle tight, and then jumped on
it
“See! It doesn’t leak.”
“I want another one, too. A big one.”
He took down a big one that would hold a gallon or more, from the roof.
He blew it up, his cheeks puffing ahead of the wine-skin, and stood on
the bota holding on to a chair.
“What are you going to do? Sell them in Bayonne?”
“No. Drink out of them.”
He slapped me on the back.
“Good man. Eight pesetas for the two. The lowest price.”
The man who was stencilling the new ones and tossing them into a pile
stopped.
“It’s true,” he said. “Eight pesetas is cheap.”
I paid and went out and along the street back to the wine-shop. It was
darker than ever inside and very crowded. I did not see Brett and Bill,
and some one said they were in the back room. At the counter the girl
filled the two wine-skins for me. One held two litres. The other held
five litres. Filling them both cost three pesetas sixty centimos. Some
one at the counter, that I had never seen before, tried to pay for the
wine, but I finally paid for it myself. The man who had wanted to pay
then bought me a drink. He would not let me buy one in return, but said
he would take a rinse of the mouth from the new wine-bag. He tipped the
big five-litre bag up and squeezed it so the wine hissed against the
back of his throat.
“All right,” he said, and handed back the bag.
In the back room Brett and Bill were sitting on barrels surrounded by
the dancers. Everybody had his arms on everybody else’s shoulders, and
they were all singing. Mike was sitting at a table with several men in
their shirt-sleeves, eating from a bowl of tuna fish, chopped onions and
vinegar. They were all drinking wine and mopping up the oil and vinegar
with pieces of bread.
“Hello, Jake. Hello!” Mike called. “Come here. I want you to meet my
friends. We’re all having an hors-d’œuvre.”
I was introduced to the people at the table. They supplied their names
to Mike and sent for a fork for me.
“Stop eating their dinner, Michael,” Brett shouted from the
wine-barrels.
“I don’t want to eat up your meal,” I said when some one handed me a
fork.
“Eat,” he said. “What do you think it’s here for?”
I unscrewed the nozzle of the big wine-bottle and handed it around.
Every one took a drink, tipping the wine-skin at arm’s length.
Outside, above the singing, we could hear the music of the procession
going by.
“Isn’t that the procession?” Mike asked.
“Nada,” some one said. “It’s nothing. Drink up. Lift the bottle.”
“Where did they find you?” I asked Mike.
“Some one brought me here,” Mike said. “They said you were here.”
“Where’s Cohn?”
“He’s passed out,” Brett called. “They’ve put him away somewhere.”
“Where is he?”
“I don’t know.”
“How should we know,” Bill said. “I think he’s dead.”
“He’s not dead,” Mike said. “I know he’s not dead. He’s just passed out
on Anis del Mono.”
As he said Anis del Mono one of the men at the table looked up, brought
out a bottle from inside his smock, and handed it to me.
“No,” I said. “No, thanks!”
“Yes. Yes. Arriba! Up with the bottle!”
I took a drink. It tasted of licorice and warmed all the way. I could
feel it warming in my stomach.
“Where the hell is Cohn?”
“I don’t know,” Mike said. “I’ll ask. Where is the drunken comrade?” he
asked in Spanish.
“You want to see him?”
“Yes,” I said.
“Not me,” said Mike. “This gent.”
The Anis del Mono man wiped his mouth and stood up.
“Come on.”
In a back room Robert Cohn was sleeping quietly on some wine-casks. It
was almost too dark to see his face. They had covered him with a coat
and another coat was folded under his head. Around his neck and on his
chest was a big wreath of twisted garlics.
“Let him sleep,” the man whispered. “He’s all right.”
Two hours later Cohn appeared. He came into the front room still with
the wreath of garlics around his neck. The Spaniards shouted when he
came in. Cohn wiped his eyes and grinned.
“I must have been sleeping,” he said.
“Oh, not at all,” Brett said.
“You were only dead,” Bill said.
“Aren’t we going to go and have some supper?” Cohn asked.
“Do you want to eat?”
“Yes. Why not? I’m hungry.”
“Eat those garlics, Robert,” Mike said. “I say. Do eat those garlics.”
Cohn stood there. His sleep had made him quite all right.
“Do let’s go and eat,” Brett said. “I must get a bath.”
“Come on,” Bill said. “Let’s translate Brett to the hotel.”
We said good-bye to many people and shook hands with many people and
went out. Outside it was dark.
“What time is it do you suppose?” Cohn asked.
“It’s to-morrow,” Mike said. “You’ve been asleep two days.”
“No,” said Cohn, “what time is it?”
“It’s ten o’clock.”
“What a lot we’ve drunk.”
“You mean what a lot _we’ve_ drunk. You went to sleep.”
Going down the dark streets to the hotel we saw the sky-rockets going up
in the square. Down the side streets that led to the square we saw the
square solid with people, those in the centre all dancing.
It was a big meal at the hotel. It was the first meal of the prices
being doubled for the fiesta, and there were several new courses. After
the dinner we were out in the town. I remember resolving that I would
stay up all night to watch the bulls go through the streets at six
o’clock in the morning, and being so sleepy that I went to bed around
four o’clock. The others stayed up.
My own room was locked and I could not find the key, so I went up-stairs
and slept on one of the beds in Cohn’s room. The fiesta was going on
outside in the night, but I was too sleepy for it to keep me awake. When
I woke it was the sound of the rocket exploding that announced the
release of the bulls from the corrals at the edge of town. They would
race through the streets and out to the bull-ring. I had been sleeping
heavily and I woke feeling I was too late. I put on a coat of Cohn’s and
went out on the balcony. Down below the narrow street was empty. All the
balconies were crowded with people. Suddenly a crowd came down the
street. They were all running, packed close together. They passed along
and up the street toward the bull-ring and behind them came more men
running faster, and then some stragglers who were really running. Behind
them was a little bare space, and then the bulls galloping, tossing
their heads up and down. It all went out of sight around the corner. One
man fell, rolled to the gutter, and lay quiet. But the bulls went right
on and did not notice him. They were all running together.
After they went out of sight a great roar came from the bull-ring. It
kept on. Then finally the pop of the rocket that meant the bulls had
gotten through the people in the ring and into the corrals. I went back
in the room and got into bed. I had been standing on the stone balcony
in bare feet. I knew our crowd must have all been out at the bull-ring.
Back in bed, I went to sleep.
Cohn woke me when he came in. He started to undress and went over and
closed the window because the people on the balcony of the house just
across the street were looking in.
“Did you see the show?” I asked.
“Yes. We were all there.”
“Anybody get hurt?”
“One of the bulls got into the crowd in the ring and tossed six or eight
people.”
“How did Brett like it?”
“It was all so sudden there wasn’t any time for it to bother anybody.”
“I wish I’d been up.”
“We didn’t know where you were. We went to your room but it was locked.”
“Where did you stay up?”
“We danced at some club.”
“I got sleepy,” I said.
“My gosh! I’m sleepy now,” Cohn said. “Doesn’t this thing ever stop?”
“Not for a week.”
Bill opened the door and put his head in.
“Where were you, Jake?”
“I saw them go through from the balcony. How was it?”
Ernest Hemingway — text from Project Gutenberg (eBook #67138)
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